Saturday, January 9, 2010

01.1 Westminster Bridge, County Hall and the London Eye

continued from previous post...

As I walk along Victoria Embankment towards Westminster Bridge, it is hard to ignore the vibrant activity around me. To the right are the many cars, coming and going to Bridge Street and Parliament Square. To the left, the river surface is alive with watercraft of all sorts, purposes and descriptions. The ones filled with tourists interest me most. Are they headed downstream to the City, to Greenwich or even the Thames Barrier, or up river, past Battersea Power Station, Chelsea Embankment, Bishop's Park, Hammersmith Bridge, and Kew Palace, towards Hampton Court Palace or Windsor? Given the cold winter air, that is all doubtful. Perhaps these are art lovers shuttling between the Tate Modern and Tate Britain. While not endless, the possibilities are plentiful.

Dominating the Landscape of the River Thames Valley, here, across from Westminster Palace is the London Eye, (recently taken over by Merlin Entertainments,http://www.londoneye.com/ ).

The walk over to County Hall by way of Westminster Bridge offers some interesting considerations. At the northwest corner of the bridge, there is the monument to Boudicca, Queen of the Icena, who led a ferocious revolt against the Romans, forcing the Empire to build a wall that now defines the City of London. Sadly, many never notice the marvelous sculpture, as it is hidden behind a large souvenir stand, erected in the shadow of Big Ben (the bell in St Stephen's Tower, adjacent to Westminster Palace). Across the way, on the south side of the street, stands the Palace of Westminster, a sprawling city that has evolved over nearly one thousand years. Look down below, through the significant security screen and you can see the smokers from the Houses of Parliament, chating outside on Parliament Green while catching a quick breath of fag. It is quite a remarkable site, to see this magnificent building stretched out along the riverside.

Then there are the vistas of London offered from the mid point of the bridge. Like all London bridges, it is worth the stroll out onto the windy precipice, to see the city form this open site. Looking north (downstream), the Embankment stretches around the bank of Kings Reach. The great performance halls of Southbank can be seen on the right, beyond the Eye. Looking south, the Albert Embankment stretches down the riverside on the left. St Thomas Hospital was moved here in the 19th Century, but has a history that probably goes back nearly one thousand years. Here can be found Florence Nightingale Museum,http://www.florence-nightingale.co.uk/cms/. Further down the road is the Archbishop of Canterbury’s London residence, Lambeth Palace. Beyond that is the Museum Of Garden History,http://www.gardenmuseum.org.uk/visitingthemuseum/, is based in the deconsecrated parish church of St Mary-at-Lambeth. On the right side is the sprawling Houses of Parliament, originally known as the Palace of Westminster.

Where Westminster bridge meets County Hall stands a large white Lion, and the significance is extensive. The Lion is made of Coade Stone, and was fired in Mrs. Coade's furness, located near here for the Lion Brewery which was also located in this neighbourhood. Coade Stone offers an incredible story. The ceramic stone stood up to weather very well. The factory manufactured much of London’s structural and architectural orniments between 1769 to 1833, including decorations on Buckingham Palace.

County Hall was originally built as administrative centre for the Victorian metropolis. Margaret Thatcher's Tories decided that they had had enough of the Left wing activists elected to that Office just across the river from the Parliament buildings, so the GLC was disbanded by the government and the building was turned into a cultural and entertainment complex, http://www.londoncountyhall.com/.

The GLC has since been replaced by the GLA and their ultra modern City Hall,http://www.london.gov.uk/gla/city_hall/index.jsp, and their ultra modern City Hall was erected across the river from the Tower of London. I suppose it was a matter of 'out of site, out of mind', or perhaps a message was intended where thoughts of Execution should replace considerations of parliamentary progress.

The most significant tenant at County Hall is the London Eye. It is a favorite destination for visitors, but some locals also enjoy it. A night flight might enhance a romantic evening. It is even promoted as a wedding site. Imagine the tag line... ‘a ride takes about a half hour, but a vow might last a lifetime’. Merlin Entertainment has added a short pre flight film in an effort to add 'more' for the very stiff price. While the "4D" film is less than four minutes duration, the process, from line-up to exit, seems to take much longer. Plan at least an hour from ticket queue to walking away from the wheel. The London Eye was built for Millennium celebrations in 2000 and was kept operational through 2002, for Queen Elizabeth II's Golden Jubilee, but its popularity and profitability, have kept it going with no end in site. It moves very slowly, and riders simply step on, and then step off, as it creeps along. It can be stopped if someone has trouble or necessity, but that seems to happen very rarely. A ride is one revolution, and offers incredible aerial views of the river, Westminster, Albert Embankment, the Queen's path and Southbank, not to mention The City and in the distance, Canary Wharf and the docklands.

The London Eye is located on the very edge of the River Embankment. The ticket office and theatre are located in County Hall.

Other tenants at County Hall include The London Sea Life Aquarium, a couple of hotels, TheLondon Film Museum, a couple of restaurants, and the The Dali Universe,http://www.thedaliuniverse.com/.

from here, a walk downstream offers glorious views of the City, enjoy, cheers

Check these spider maps for Bus accessaccess.

Westminster Tube Station,http://www.tfl.gov.uk/tfl/gettingaround/maps/buses/pdf/westminster-2298.pdf

County Hall

http://www.tfl.gov.uk/tfl/gettingaround/maps/buses/pdf/countyhall-2060.pdf

Here is a local map for the north (or west) side of the river,

http://www.journeyplanner.org/Download/EnvMaps/tfl/TK_Westminster.pdf

Here is a local map for the south (or east) side of the river,

http://www.journeyplanner.org/Download/EnvMaps/tfl/TK_Waterloo.pdf .

0.22 pubs near Trafalgar Square

Having a great home base like Trafalgar Square requires a good pub, for ale, and food.

Check these out

THE HARP, COVENT GARDEN, 47 Chandos Place, covent garden, London, WC2N 4HS, located north of St Martins in the Fields, far side. Current user rating: 7.7/10 (rated by 371 users). http://www.beerintheevening.com/pubs/s/92/924/Harp/Covent_Garden

The pubs of St. Martins Lane…

THE SALISBURY, 90, St. Martins Lane, Leicester Square, London, WC2N 4AP, just up the road a couple of blocks, VERY NICE. Current user rating: 7.1/10 (rated by 134 users).http://www.beerintheevening.com/pubs/s/86/865/Salisbury/Leicester_Square

THE CHANDOS, 29, St. Martins Lane, London, WC2N 4ER, practically across the street from the National Portrait gallery. Current user rating: 6.9/10 (rated by 194 users).http://www.beerintheevening.com/pubs/s/65/657/

THE GREEN MAN AND FRENCH HORN, 54, St. Martins Lane, London, WC2N 4EA, Current user rating: 6.7/10 (rated by 49 users).http://www.beerintheevening.com/pubs/s/63/6374/Green_Man_and_French_Horn/Covent_Garden

THE LAMB AND FLAG, COVENT GARDEN, 33, Rose St, London, WC2E 9EB, Just around the corner from the Salisbury. A little hard to find. Just behind Stanford’s Travel Bookstore, (http://www.stanfords.co.uk/info/store-one,9,GP.html ). Current user rating: 6.6/10(rated by 152 users). http://www.beerintheevening.com/pubs/s/69/692/Lamb_and_Flag/Covent_Garden

it is a classic, with great history.

THE NELL GWYNNE, COVENT GARDEN, 2 Bull Inn Court, London, WC2R 0NP, Current user rating: 7.0/10 (rated by 104 users).http://www.beerintheevening.com/pubs/s/42/421/Nell_Gwynne/Covent_Garden

I've not bee here, but comes recommeded.

GORDON'S WINE BAR, CHARING CROSS, 47 Villiers Street, Charing Cross, London, WC2N 6NE. Current user rating: 7.4/10 (rated by 105 users).http://www.beerintheevening.com/pubs/s/89/896/Gordons_Wine_Bar/Charing_Cross

it is a classic, with great history, just north of the York Watergate, Victoria Embankment/Embankment Tube Station.

THE SHIP AND SHOVELL, CHARING CROSS, 1-3, Craven Passage, Charing Cross, London, WC2N 5PH. Current user rating: 7.3/10 (rated by 145 users).http://www.beerintheevening.com/pubs/s/86/864/Ship_and_Shovell/Charing_Cross

THE SHERLOCK HOLMES, CHARING CROSS, 10-11, Northumberland St, London, WC2N 5DA. Current user rating: 6.0/10 (rated by 83 users).http://www.beerintheevening.com/pubs/s/65/658/Sherlock_Holmes/Charing_Cross

VILLIERS BAR, CHARING CROSS, The Arches, Villiers Street, London, WC2N 6NG.Current user rating: 6.3/10 (rated by 3 users).http://www.beerintheevening.com/pubs/s/68/6838/Villiers_Bar/Charing_Cross

not familiar, but sounds good.

THE OLD SHADES, WHITEHALL, 37, Whitehall, London, SW1A 2BX. Current user rating: 6.7/10 (rated by 35 users).http://www.beerintheevening.com/pubs/s/21/2100/Old_Shades/Whitehall

Just south of Trafalgar Square.

WALKERS WINE AND ALE BAR, WHITEHALL, 15, Craigs Court, Whitehall, London, SW1A 2DD. Current user rating: 6.2/10 (rated by 25 users).http://www.beerintheevening.com/pubs/s/19/1990/Walkers_Wine_and_Ale_Bar/Whitehall

THE LORD MOON OF THE MALL, WHITEHALL, 16-18, Whitehall, London, SW1A 2DY, Current user rating: 5.6/10 (rated by 90 users).http://www.beerintheevening.com/pubs/s/92/927/Lord_Moon_Of_The_Mall/Whitehall

They have great lunch specials, decent factory food, but not too expensive.

THE CORK AND BOTTLE, LEICESTER SQUARE, 44-46 Cranbourne Street, London, WC2H 7AN. Current user rating: 7.3/10 (rated by 7 users).http://www.beerintheevening.com/pubs/s/75/7555/Cork_And_Bottle/Leicester_Square

THE SPORTS CAFE, HAYMARKET, 80 Haymarket, London, SW1Y 4TE. Current user rating: 3.2/10 (rated by 36 users). A good place to watch American football.http://www.beerintheevening.com/pubs/s/69/6903/Sports_Cafe/Haymarket

0.1 Trafalgar Square

I’ve always had a special fondness for this small piece of London located at a crossroads, long called Charing Cross.

Perhaps it’s the excitement, with all manner of interesting things ‘going on’. Perhaps it’s the liberties enjoyed, such as children running freely in what appears to be a fairly formal and officious place.

If London is a playground, then Trafalgar Square is the Main Gate. This is the centre of London, geographically, functionally and spiritually. Six Avenues radiate from here to all parts of London. From here, all parts of London, (in fact, the entire Kingdom), can be found.

But more than a landmark, or starting line, the Square is a destination in itself. There are places of interest all around. Events and activities like New Years, through all seasons, stretch onto Christmas and the next New Year’s Eve, this is where so many locals and visitors come to celebrate the moment.

It is here where I set my bearings each trip, and it is from here that all other things can be measured, literally.

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&safe=off&client=safari&rls=en&q=york+place,+london&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=York+Pl,+Westminster,+London+WC2N+5,+UK&ei=Q4pLS8XECdLjlAfCv5WKDQ&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=image&resnum=1&ved=0CAkQ8gEwAA

Thursday, January 7, 2010

01 walking to the River

01 Welcome

Another New Years resolution crawls out of the muck and mire of modern life.

sitting in front of my keyboard, I try to fool myself onto a dry bench in Trafalgar Square, gazing across the landscape at Canada House, thinking it must be really cold there, in Canada, in January.

Not a bad day here in London though.

Its a good day to walk along the river, So off I go, down Northumberland Ave.

There is really nothing special about Northumberland Ave. It divides the massive marble monuments of Whitehall, from the mosiac of development on historic lands of ancient riverfront estates. At the end if the road is the river, framed by the Victorian masterpiece that is the 'Embankment'.

The Embankment may be London's greatest engineering marvel,http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thames_Embankment.

So very pedestrian in these days of Twits and Tweets, the mammoth project of JosephBazalgette, ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joseph_Bazalgette ), transformed the city like no other effort. There is a monument to the man at the end of Northumberland Avenue, at the edge of the embankment, overlooking the river, (this requires crossing the busy road known as 'Victoria Embankment'). The Embankment helped control the rivers currents, sewage and disease, helped reclaim hundreds of worthless acres on both sides of the river, and gave roadbeds for the newly conceived underground railway, not to mention utility conduits for an ever increasing technologically advancing people.

From here, above the river's King's Reach, the vistas are remarkable, with the flourishing and ever heightening horizon of the city to the left, (downstream), the towers of Westminster to the right, and the most significant object of London's twenty first Century skyline across the way on the reclaimed land of Lambeth.

From here there are three simple choices. Today, we turn right and walk along the Thames Path towards Westminster. Others options are to take the shortcut across the river on Hungerford Bridge, (to take a ride on the London Eye), or go east, towards the City.

Following the desire drawing people towards Big Ben, walk upstream. From here, one is tempted into Whitehall Gardens (which requires the crossing of Victoria Embankment again).

Here the secluded benches astride pleasant gardens, enhanced by monuments to historic people make for a very good rest and recharging spot.

As we continue along the waterfront, time and again, we are offered monuments and statues that help tell the story of London, England and Empire. The most note worthy for those fond of history are Queen Mary' Steps, http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1125758 located on the northeast corner of the MOD building south of Horse Guards Ave. This very odd visual, of steps descending from a solid wall, into a ditch, must prompt curious questions from those unfamiliar, but there is more to understand here than any other garden in London. Here stood the riverside access to Whitehall Palace, and the steps, (the only other significant relic from the palace beside Banqueting House on Whitehall), dating back over 400 years. It offers some perspective to the landscape that existed before the embankment was constructed. Back then, the riverbank was muck and mire as the tidal effect of the Thames gave daily rise and fall of water levels. Anxious to lure Queen Mary II, (and her husband William of Orange), to England to stabilize the Protestant efforts in England, Parliament did not hesitate to invest in improvements to Royal property. Centuries of decay and debris had buried the steps from sight and memory, but development of the MOD building on the eve of WWII rediscovered them, along with Henry VIII's wine cellar (not accessible to the public),http://www.shadyoldlady.com/location.php?loc=433 and they have been saved for posterity.

Cross back to the pedestrian walk closest to the river and pass the monument to the RAF (crowned with a golden eagle ), and discover the spectacular new Monument to the Battle of Britain located in the middle of the walkway, beyond Richmond Terrace.

Take some time and have a good look, and consider that this city was spared from total destruction by relatively few people.

It is time for me to close out, but I hope to finish this article soon.

Before I go..

I should mention that the Embankment walk continues to Bridge Street where Big Ben hangs out, (i St Stephen's Tower).

also

enroute to the bridge, one passes Westminster Pier, where riverboats take people on very nice cruises, most pleasant in the summertime.

Also, where the steps rise from the Embankment to Bridge Street, notice the sculpture of Boadicea, prehistoric England's great heroine.

here is a website that offers good information about the art and arcitecture of the Embankmet and London; http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/speel/london/embank1.htm

Thank you Bob Speel

Some other helpful websites;

LTF local area maps

http://www.journeyplanner.org/Download/EnvMaps/tfl/TK_Embankment.pdf

http://www.journeyplanner.org/Download/EnvMaps/tfl/TK_Westminster.pdf

Spider maps

Trafalgar Square - http://www.tfl.gov.uk/tfl/gettingaround/maps/buses/pdf/trafalgarsquare-2262.pdf

Westminster - http://www.tfl.gov.uk/tfl/gettingaround/maps/buses/pdf/westminster-2298.pdf

Monument to the Battle of Britain

http://www.bbm.org.uk/

http://www.sculpture.org.uk/image/910000000150/

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/4257084.stm

http://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/education/worldwar2/theatres-of-war/western-europe/investigation/battle-of-britain/sources/photos/1h/